The Mirrix Performed Outstanding!

I have completed my base pattern, for this cuff, which includes my personal technique of a 'wavy loomed edge'. The Mirrix did an outstanding job and is designed perfectly for this method of beading.

No finagling with the weighted warps, as I have with other set ups trying to complete this same method of looming. Depending on the pattern, each of the weighted warps move up in various lengths. This is where the suggestion of a 'bobbin' comes into serious thought. However, I did 'swap out' the outer right two weighted warps, when my right indent was the furthest inward. Notice where the bobbins lay now, opposed to an earlier picture, below, when I started.

I'll be including finer details of the finishing process, in other venues, but I do want to share one detail that may make your looming better if you know ahead of time. The outer weighted warp is shorter because that warp has a tendency to be 'pulled inside' of the end bead. The picture below shows how the warp is 'inside' the end bead, when my needle has it's final 'pull', securing a row.

So if any of the warps are in need of a bobbin, it would have to be the 'outer right warp', for any pattern. Don't pull the warp so far into the bead, or your looming will 'ruffle' along this edge. Logically, with movement of your loomed piece, while wearing, the threads loosen up. Therefore, having too much 'warp inside', it will work its way out eventually. I offer a finishing technique that finalizes this 'weighted warp method', and limits the amount of 'slack' caused by the outside warp.

The base pattern is complete. Here is a picture of the cuff, titled "Ruppunzel"! (This was originally just a braid of rattan, but my friend Ness, from across the pond, mentioned she can't help but think of this story, when she sees it!

Not much more till this cuff can be worn, but these details will be offered later.

The Mirrix Loom is a sturdy, well built loom. I have realized there are techniques that can be performed with this loom, unlike any other. My usual mode is to use a 'horizontal' resting loom, but I have enjoyed the option of the 'vertical' design, the Mirrix offers. I have a few more new and different techniques to share, again best performed on a Mirrix. I'll be sharing them in pictures soon!

'Weighted Warps' with a Mirrix Loom

I have recently purchased a Mirrix Loom with much anticipation to use a well crafted, assembled loom which can handle some unique techniques I have been perfecting. One of these techniques is called the 'Weighted Warp Method'. This method allows a 'wavy edge' to be loomed, as opposed to the standard thought of 'straight edges only'. The Mirrix Loom is perfect for this method, because of being vertical, but also because of the accessories which can be purchased. I am talking about 'Tension Bead Looming' and not the 'Heddle Bead Looming' method.

To create the wavy edge, you will be stringing up the warps with 'weighted warps' on either side of the your loomed width. String up the loom as usual, but do not include the number of warps needed to create an 'indent' or 'wavy' look to your looming edge. You much keep the number of indents to an even number, as these warps are 'looped with a weight' to keep them taught, yet movable. Here is a close up of the weights attached to my four outside warps.

The spring you see in the upper portion of that photo, is actually an additional spring, stretched to hook onto a clamp of the lower warp bar. (I suggest purchasing an additional warp bar, when you purchase a Mirrix Loom for Tension Looming, so you won't have 'two layers' of warp thread, which only ends up in waste. The cost of a second warp bar is much less then the cost of spools of thread.) Here is a close up of that center spring, used to center and stable the 'weighted warps'.

Notice the rod running inside of this spring. This too is an addition to your Mirrix Loom, which hold the weighted warps from moving out of the 'spring grooves' while looming this particular method.

Here is the outcome of looming with 'weighted warps',

Notice the indentations and increases on each side of this looming. To accomplish this look, it is necessary for the warps to be 'weighted' or 'movable' on each side, as I pictured above.

Once the loom is strung, for tension looming, and the weights are in place, loom rows of your longest point to stabilize the rest of your work.

When the pattern calls for the 'indent', you will add the beads to your needle, leaving off the end bead. Loom as usual, but when you run your needle back through the row, be sure to loop the weft 'around' the end warp.

When you pull your weft taught, to finish this row, you will continue to pull until the loop is gone and the weft is now pulling the end warp snug against the last bead in the row. The weighted warp, as seen in pictures above, is what allows this warp to comfortably move 'up and inward'. The center spring, also pictured above, is what will keep your warps in line, for future rows.




You will be keeping track of each 'weighted warp' so you can not only indent, like that above, but also 'increase'.


As you continue, you can also use the 'weighted warps' on the opposite side of your looming, to 'increase and decrease'.


There are some fine points to discuss, about this method. For instance, be sure to keep your end beads, of each added row, very loose, till you can add that bead to your needle. Don't allow your warps to twist and stay in line with how you strung them, or wait till the further decrease is complete to swap out warps. Claudia Chase, of Mirrix Looms, even suggested using 'bobbins', similar to what you purchase for Kumi Looming, or 'Kumihimo'. This way, your 'weighted warps' could be 'unwrapped' as you need the length. I haven't tried this means and wonder if bobbins would be heavy enough to 'weight' the 'warps', as needed.

Right now, I am enjoying my work with this Mirrix Loom.