
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix

Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix

Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix

I finally just said enough is enough, hid myself away in the studio on Monday, and spent some time weaving. So there’s been a bit of progress since the last post. I’m looking forward to finishing this weaving because I have a couple of techniques I want to experiment with once it’s off the loom. I’ll share more of those details once I’m closer to being finished.
Remember the first piece I completed?
I needed a portable project so I’ve finally started embellishing it and will have something to show you on Saturday. Working on that first weaving again reminded me how much I like weaving with yarns that have variegated colors and textures.
Mirrix is having a post-holiday loom sale so everything is 15% off in the Mirrix store with the code: 15offeverything. Also, don’t forget to subscribe to the Mirrix Loom newsletter. Each week you’ll receive information about the latest deals, “how-to” videos, classes, contests, and featured artists. It looks like Elena and Claudia have lots of new content heading our way in 2011 and I know I’m looking forward to seeing what they’ve been working on. I seem to remember seeing a tweet recently about a new loom.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Trice Looming!
String your loom as you would start any new looming project, warping one thread more then the number of loomed beads wide. Now string on a good number of edging beads, usually something round, not tubular like a Delica. This type of bead lays much nicer for this simple line edge. You will want to thread 5 or so more number of beads than the rows you plan to loom. These can be added after the initial warps are strung or string the beads first and warp the loom with the two extra warps stacked with beads.

Attach your weft to the outside warp of your looming row, not the same thread holding your edging beads. Loom the first row as if the two outside warps with beads are not there!

Just after exiting this row, slide an edge bead up and run your needle inside, towards you.

Now add the next number of beads needed to loom the next row, in this case there are ten beads creating this narrow banding.

Before turning your needle upwards and running it back inside the same row of beads, above the warps (the usual looming methods), pick up another edge bead from the other side.

Now you can continue the usual looming technique of going back through the row of beads, keeping your needle above the warps.

When you exit on the starting side, pick up another edge bead, just as you did in the first step described. Continue looming these steps until you reach the desired length of looming you need.

This Trice Looming Style, creates a simple edge with the edge beads sitting on their sides. This also finishes the looming to a classic look, no holes or threads showing!

I have many other variations of this same method, creating edges much more intricate then this simple line. Those will be shared in my book! In the meantime, you can experiment with adding more or less beads and additional warps full of beads! If you plan on creating a scalloped type edge, you'll need to keep those warps free for movement as the warp threads will be used up or longer, than what you attach to the loom.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Finishing a loomed cuff with an adjustable clasp!

I just completed another cuff, with a design fit for the season! This is titled, "Who-Me Deer?". It is a 30 bead wide loomed cuff. When I create such a wide cuff, my main staple of clasp choices become a slide tube clasp. They have a long presence, mostly 35mm. I never cared for the design of a 'single loop' or 'small single clasp' on a wide cuff, because I wouldn't want it to flip or flop around on the wrist. I also feel that a single, small clasp, of some sort, on a wide looming, just doesn't offer a proper 'balance in design'.

The adjustable aspect, of this design, is also something I am sharing. It can be difficult to loom cuffs to an exact fit, without having the model to refer, so an adjustable design can be a great feature.

I call the end caps, seen in the photos above, my 'crunchy clasp' method. The reason being that beads are 'cracked' when they are attached. It can be very uneasy to think about the beads breaking, but my technique keeps the cracking of beads into consideration, long before I have to attach the 'CC's' to the ends!
The one end of this cuff is finished with a copper chain, for the adjusting part, topped off with a dangle, a custom made 'snow globe lamp work bead'. On the other end is a copper wire hook clasp and matching stones, again wrapped in copper wire.

Above is a montage of the edging. The large beads are 'copper barrels' aligned perfectly between four rows of looming. There is a 'stop bead' two beads inward because I wanted the barrels to lay directly next to one another. This stop bead allowed me to enter a row of looming then exit the same row of looming. To secure the large barrel beads further, I strung a strand of copper 11/0 glass beads, directly inside the entire row. This will keep each barrel bead in line, especially while being worn or bending the cuff. The opposite edge was finished in a simple copper color Permanent Finish 11/0 glass bead.
This method of clasping a loomed cuff can be the simplest way to manage the warps and still complete a cuff in a professional finished manner!
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix

Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix

The weaving of
There’s been no rest for the wicked this week as I’m getting a few minutes in the studio each evening and that’s about it. I have to admit I can’t wait for the holidays to be over so life will get back to normal and I’ll have more time to spend in the studio. Fortunately, for me life starts to get back on schedule the week between Christmas and New Years. I have a stack of land sat photos waiting, as well as a number of deadlines looming, so I’m anxious to finish this one and start the next.
Just a quick reminder that Sunday, 12/19/10 is the last day to order a loom if you want it to arrive in time for Christmas.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix

I had hoped to get a mid-week video posted but suddenly it was Saturday and no extra video. Not quite sure where the week went.
In the ramp up to the holidays, there hasn't been much time to spend in the studio so the weaving is coming along slowly. But I'm loving these colors. And so far I'm happy with the raggedness of the green area. I'm being careful that the weaving doesn't become too linear and symmetrical. The darker splotches you see on the pattern will be done in the darker purple Tahki Cotton Yarn.

One of the things you have to be careful of when you first start weaving is not to pull the weft too tight otherwise the sides of the weaving won't be straight. I usually measure the width of the weaving after every inch to make sure everything is okay. As you can see, the warp threads are still evenly spaced. If you see that warp threads are starting to pull together, you can use a bobbin to space them out again if you catch the problem early in the weaving. Using heddles and the shedding device also helps keep the weaving even. Right now I'm weaving with a combination of needles and butterflies instead of stick shuttles or bobbins.
I'll be working at the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market's Pop-up Shop next weekend. We've received some really amazing textile work from India and I'm hoping there are some weavings waiting to be unpacked. If I come across any, I'll share pics on the blog next week.
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix

I’ve started weaving the LandSat photo of Dragon Lake Siberia and that Tahki Cotton Classic is a dream to weave with. I’m actually further along now than this picture shows but I wanted to show the beginning of the weaving.
The beige threads at the base of the weaving are the hem. The purpose of the hem is to space out the warp threads evenly and it gives me a foundation to work on. Once the tapestry is finished, I will remove the hem before knotting the warp threads. Some weavers turn the hem under and stitch it to the back of the tapestry.

I mentioned in a previous post that I will be using 3 colors of the Tahki Cotton Classic in this weaving. You can see 2 of the colors above. There are a number of tapestry techniques to consider when weaving and I’m using a warp interlock (wefts in adjacent areas share a common warp) technique here. The warp interlock technique creates a more jagged edge where the 2 colors meet. Since I’m working from a LandSat photo, I wanted to avoid the hard edges that can sometimes be the result of using a slit technique.
One of the subjects I meant to cover in the last video was tools for passing the weft thread through the shed. I make my decision based on the design and use either bobbins, stick shuttles, butterflies, or long needles. In my opinion, butterflies are the easiest for the beginning weaver to start with.
Again, I would highly recommend Nancy Harvey’s Tapestry Weaving: A Comprehensive Study Guide or Kristen Glasbrook’s Tapestry Weaving if you’re just getting started.
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix



Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Social Market for a Mirrix
I’ve tried to think of a positive way to spin this but the reality is…
The Southwest landscape weaving is now residing in the wastebasket beside my work table. I just wasn’t happy with it and the more I worked on it, the more frustrated I became. It was the sky and the valley area that was causing the problems for me. I just couldn’t get that illusion of depth and distance that I was looking for. When I found myself starting to dread going into the studio to weave, I decided life’s too short to spend time working on something that wasn't making me happy and it came off the loom. No, there are no more pictures, it was that bad.

For this piece, I warped the loom using regular bulky yarn instead of C-Lon cord then used the same yarn for the weft, incorporating the scraps as I worked. The piece is about 10 inches wide and about 12 inches high. I’m thinking about attaching a handmade mask in the middle of the weaving then mounting the piece on a black background and framing it.